It was raining when I woke up and I really didn’t want to start the day wet again so I waited. It stopped at about 8:45 so by 9AM I was ready to leave in about 2 minutes when somebody knocks on my door...

I open the door and I recognize a couple of guys I talked to yesterday and a few other people. One of them enters the room and introduces himself as being with the foreign affair police. Only now I notice that he in fact has a uniform. So many people of different professions in this country wear uniforms that all look like police, military or similar (even attendants at some petrol stations) that I failed to notice this gray uniform this guy was wearing. I guess the big difference was a large officer number on his chest pocket...

Anyway, after a few initial questions he says: “I’m sorry to inform you but you are in an area that is not open to foreigners.”
“Shit!” flashes immediately in my head. One of the things I remember the most from stories I read from people who traveled in China is that few of them got caught in such “alien forbidden areas” and were always locked up and in few cases forced to confess that they were spies (otherwise they would apparently keep them locked up) and when they did (on their embassy’s suggestion) they were immediately deported.

I wouldn’t even mind that much if they locked me up for a couple of days as it would be definitely an interesting experience and a funny story afterwards, but being deported I definitely didn’t want to be as there is still so much left to see in China, not talking about the fact that Tanja is coming to teach English somewhere here in China soon.

I really started to be nervous when he mentioned that I couldn’t drive here alone without an escort. “OK, now he’s gonna lock me up and then request me to pay for the escort in a Land Cruiser 150 US dollars a day, great!! :-((“ was buzzing in my head like a swarm of hornets. I got even more scared when he asked how come they even let my bike into China on the border. I explained that “all my documents were in order”, like it was absolutely normal that they did. Then he wanted to see the documentation so I showed him the piece of paper the border guy gave me to “show his soldiers” as he put it then. This seemed to have worked as he stopped asking about the bike and only started writing to his notepad all that was on this card I showed to him. Then he also “copied” all the entries in my passport and the Chinese visa in it, which was the first thing he requested from me at the beginning.

“Can you show me your luggage?” he then requested.
“What do you mean?” I asked in an effort to take back the request in case it was unwarranted.
“I want to look at your luggage.”
“OK, he means it. Now he’s going to find all the things which even though are on my customs declaration list are not allowed to import into China.” was running through my head like a racing horse clumping loudly.
“Why?” I asked.
“Because you have violated the law and now I have to check your luggage.” was his clear answer.
“Oh I see. Of course, please…” I reacted like I really didn’t understand the first time what he wanted to do.

Maybe thankfully he only skimmed through the two panniers I had in my room with me and the only thing he seemed to be interested in was my documents which he pulled out and skimmed through them quickly as well.

After all this, almost an hour later, he got out of the room not saying a word. When I went outside to check if that was the end of it all I found him talking on his mobile phone to someone who I presume was his superior officer as he was clearly explaining all the facts he had for my case.
“OK, now is the decision time. Please be it all good.” I prayed.

The whole time I was as collaborative and understanding as possible and again smiling friendly as appropriate and it might have worked again as he let me off the hook with a mere warning! Great news! I was relieved.

After this he actually showed me the section in his book of laws that describes the procedures for cases like mine. There I learned that except of the warning he could also fine me with either 30 or 100 Yuan or in case of severe violation entering a forbidden area an immediate deportation. So he let me go with the lightest penalty he could. I keep saying that most people are good and he was only doing his job. What I wonder about though is how they learned about me staying in that place in the first place. I don’t see many other possibilities except the one where one of the guys who let me stay here yesterday called them. Whatever, I am fine this time.

I asked this policeman where I could get a map or at least a list of provinces that are closed to foreigners like the one I was just in. He suggested visiting a foreign affairs police in the next province, but I wonder how I could find it in a country where almost nobody speaks English.
From what this policeman said during the “investigation” and what I confirmed by a question afterwards I learned that one can actually enter these “alien forbidden” areas, but he/she can’t stay over night. So if I just passed through in one day I would actually not be violating any law. That was new for me, especially because I think I read that some of the travelers were locked up just riding through such area. Well, either I don’t remember correctly what I read or the law here changed or this guy gave me incorrect information. In any case I’m safe and happy now.

To get to Longsheng after the morning scare was not a big deal. About 90 kilometers is not too long even on bad roads like those along most of this ride. I actually started to suspect the Chinese government that they close certain areas to foreigners only because they don’t want to show them roads in bad conditions… ;-) But then again, they would not let you at least ride through them, would they… :-) 

From Longsheng I wanted to continue down towards Guilin to see the spectacular limestone outcrops that this region is famous for. However, I noticed one of the few English signs pointing to a raised field terraces place so I thought I would check it out. Also, it was raining at that time and I didn’t really want to ride through “the best Chinese scenery” as they put it without sunrays helping me to enjoy the views and to take some nice photographs.

When the downpour was in its strongest I had to stop somewhere. It didn’t take long to arrive in a village that is visibly undergoing some tourist development and park the bike and myself under a roof of a long roofed rest area along the river. As always I and mainly the bike were the centre of attention of everybody around. I had a lunch, during which also a few women in traditional local costumes came. A couple of them were trying to sell me local embroidery and one offered her hotel just across the road. I agreed that I might stay there if I would decide to stay in the area. Although still under construction the hotel, all wooden, looked nice with its non-glassed ornamental wooden windows.

The first terraces were only 7 kilometers from this place (entrance fee is 50 Yuan!) right above this village on a windy road climbing the face of the mountain across the river almost straight up. Up there I waited for over 2 hours for the rain to stop while talking to a young guy who (among other people, all woman) offered me his hotel in the village among the terraced fields. He was the only one speaking English and a pretty good one I have to say. It was a pleasant conversation.

As it was clear that I had to stay the night for the chance to see the terraced fields in the morning sun I headed back down (as in the hotels up among the fields I would have to carry my panniers a long way) to stay in the hotel I was originally offered.

The hotel was really still under construction (as was the one just next to it) so my doors had no lock and the room had no windows (I mean it has the holes but nothing to close them with), so I requested a discount from the originally offered 20-Yuan price. The nice lady explained that it was including food and that was good enough for me to drop my demand. The wooden room still smeled fresh and thanks to no windows I heard the rain and the river, which was actually very nice as it felt like I was sleeping in nature again. And as for the food, that was the best tasting dinner in China so far, beating the previous night’s one, and it was again more than enough in quantity.

So I was happy. If only there was clear sky tomorrow morning.

(190 km)